Wok Passion @ Lane Cove

I have to admit I view eateries that cover more than one cuisine type with a healthy dose of scepticism – the old “Jack of all trades, master of none” figure of speech pops up in my cynical head when I see hyphens deployed on restaurant signs.

This kind of thinking pretty much assured that I would never have checked out Wok Passion – www.wokpassion.com.au – but for the fact that I was personally invited by the owners to dine there.

Fellow Malaysians Ching and Maylin, the relatively new owners of the restaurant (originally a Chinese establishment), have spent the last eighteen months or so revamping the menu to include some Malaysian specialties.  I figured it explained why it was now “Chinese-Malaysian” instead of just “Chinese”. I assumed they were trying to retain its existing goodwill whilst expanding its offerings.

A quick glance through the menu shows there’s an element of that – typical Malaysian street fare like Laksa, Roti Canai, Penang Char Kway Teow and Mee Goreng are peppered throughout the 24 pages, alongside traditional Chinese dishes like Chicken & Sweet Corn Soup, Duck Pancakes etc.

Having eaten there however, I’ve realised it’s a bit simplistic to think they are merely trying to cover all bases.

I’m going to ramble a bit to make my next point, so bear with me.

Without trying to dissect the Malaysian culinary landscape too much, I’d like to point out, thanks to its multicultural history –

1)       there are Chinese-influenced Malaysian dishes (think Char Kway Teow), and also Indian-influenced Malaysian dishes (Roti Canai) etc.

2)      There are also Chinese dishes in Malaysia (and Chinese restaurants etc.) – that you wouldn’t mistake for anything but Chinese. They are, nonetheless, Malaysian-influenced Chinese food.

When I first moved to Australia (and subsequently the UK) it was quite a revelation to me that the Chinese food in Chinatown here is quite different to the Chinese food I grew up knowing in Malaysia.

I tend to find the Hong Kong-influenced restaurant dishes in Sydney’s Chinatown a little bland for my taste buds – I have to have copious amounts of soya sauce and sliced chillies with my meal when I eat there.

Back to Wok Passion – and all but one of the dishes selected by Ching and Maylin were actually Chinese – which confused me originally, since I fully expected them to showcase their Malaysian dishes like Satay and Char Kway Teow. I am very glad they picked these instead, because I realised then, how much I had missed Malaysian-style Chinese food.

I went with my friends Ian and Cindy Chow, and my daughter Becky and her husband Micko, and these were what we had –

I expected the Herbal Chicken to be an acquired taste – as a kid anything “herbal” my mom made meant “medicinal” ie. in the “hold your nose and gulp it down” category – but it was nothing like that at all – it tasted fantastic.

Chewing on the Grouper Fish Head might be daunting to the average Australian diner, but if you’re up for it, the ginger & garlic sauce is unforgettable.

Nyonya Steamed FishThe Nyonya Steamed Fish was topped with a deliciously spicy, gingery sauce and as for the Kai Lan – I would apprentice in their kitchen just to learn how to make it.

Wok Passion’s new chef is apparently a relative of the owners and used to run her own famous restaurant in Malaysia. Like any Chinese restaurant, it specialises in banquet-style dining – ie. communal sharing is the best way to enjoy the experience.

I’ve no doubt their Malaysian offerings are going to taste great but with such a vast menu it’ll take me awhile to get through everything; plus I’m a bit of a creature of habit so I can see myself ordering those same four dishes for quite some time.

I thought the prices were very reasonable compared to Chinatown, and I had no problems getting a parking spot on the street. This is my new favourite (Malaysian-owned) Chinese restaurant in Sydney.   I can’t wait to go back.

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Ps. As I write this, googling the place by name brings up its old website (ie. before the change of hands) and a corresponding “permanently closed” notation in Google Maps – just remember the new URL – www.wokpassion.com.au

Closed Tuesdays

Non-halal (as a non-pork eater I was very grateful none of the dishes they brought out were pork – their specialty is seafood, which suits me perfectly).